Making Panoramas and Printing Them with Your Epson Printer
The panoramic print has gained a lot of attention over the past few years. A long print showing a wide view of an area gives the viewer a new perspective on a scene. While especially popular among landscape photographers, panoramic images work with many subjects.
Photoshop has made it easier than ever to produce panoramas with its advanced alignment algorithms. In addition, ArcSoft PanoramaMaker continues to be a great software value that rivals programs many times its price. It also has encouraged many photographers to try panoramas.

Epson was the first printer company to offer ink jets that could print the long images that panoramic photos require. Using their standard printers, you can easily print photos up to the full width of the paper and 44 inches long, and Epson's graphic printers have no length limit. Panoramic images definitely gained in popularity because Epson printers were available to print them.
Still, just because you can print a panoramic format image doesn’t mean any subject will make a good panoramic print. You must compose and shoot an image that uses the entire subject area effectively. A Panoramic image must work across the full print from left to right. Common mistakes are:
| * Creating an image that has all the interest in the center – if you can crop off the sides without hurting the photo, you won’t have a good panoramic print. |
| * Making a photo with a lot of stuff from left to right, but nothing really structures or defines the image. A pattern is usually not enough because patterns don’t need a panoramic format to work. |
| * Having an unbalanced image where part of the panoramic looks good, but there are distinct gaps in interesting visual material. |


To make a good panoramic print, you could shoot with a panoramic camera and scan the resulting negative or transparency. It will be too big for most film scanners, so you’ll need to use something like a high-resolution flatbed scanner with transparency adapter.
Most photographers today are building panoramics from images shot with a standard digital camera. This has become easy to do, and while sophisticated tripod heads can make the process work smoother, they are not a necessity.
To do this, shoot a series of photos from one side of the scene to the other, overlapping each shot. Then put them together in the computer. One advantage to this is that you can use the equipment you already have.
| * Plan out the panoramic. Figure out what will be included in the composition from left to right (or top to bottom if you are shooting a tall panoramic image, which can be an interesting variation on the technique). To keep a viewer’s attention, a panoramic needs to have interesting things happening from one side to another, with no dead space. |
| * Level your tripod and camera. As you move it across the scene taking photos, the camera needs to follow a horizontal plane or the resulting images will be hard to line up. Do the leveling in two steps: Tripod first (use the bubble level) and then the camera. You can check to see how level the camera is by panning it across the scene—the top should be at the same line from start to finish. |
| * Shoot a series of photographs across the scene. Work from the left to the right side of the composition, moving the camera slightly before each shot. |
| * Overlap the images by 20–50%. More overlap can make it easier to line up the photos in the computer, especially with automated programs. Look for strong visual elements that are in the overlap areas – they will help to align the images. They will also dictate how much overlap you need. |
| * Shoot on manual. Your exposure needs to be optimized and the same through the entire sequence of images or the final pieces of the pan will have tonal variations that will not match up. Also, stay away from auto white balance. Use the same white balance setting or you may get color variations, too. |
| * Practice. There is no question that panoramic photography gets easier as you do more of it. |

Once you have your shots, bring them into the computer. With a digital camera, this is a relatively straightforward step, since all the images should be identical in size. Do not crop or change the image size at this point.
There are two basic ways of dealing with a panoramic image composed of several individual images. You can use a stitching program that does the work for you, or you can use image-processing software that has layers and you do it yourself. There are advantages and disadvantages to each method. Stitching programs (such as ArcSoft’s Panorama Maker (www.arcsoft.com), or the Photomerge option in both Photoshop and Photoshop Elements (www.adobe.com) are very easy, but work best when there are distinct objects in the overlapped areas. In addition, they should have a healthy overlap of the images (20–50%) to do their stitching. Some programs have some “morphing” capabilities that allow the images to blend better when things don’t match perfectly.
With a stitching program, the steps are pretty straightforward. First, you need to check all of your photos to be sure they are consistent in size and tonality. Any big changes in brightness, for example, will show up as unevenness in the final image.
Make any adjustments needed to give them the required consistency before you try to stitch them together and then import them into your stitching program. While some programs claim to be able to figure out the order of your photos automatically, you can usually help the program work more efficiently if you put the pictures in order from left to right (or top to bottom).
Then tell the program to go to work. Depending on the processing speed and RAM of your computer, this will take a little time. RAM is really critical, as panoramic photos can get quite large. Once the processing is complete, take a look at your photo. You may find a section that is a problem due to uneven tones. You may have to go back and adjust that photo, then redo the panoramic. Minor problems can often be corrected with the cloning tool. You’ll usually have to crop the final image to fix the edges.
The sky part of a constructed panoramic photo is one place where you will often run into problems. Inconsistencies of tone here can really make an otherwise good panoramic look bad.
Probably the easiest way to fix skies is to use a combination of selections and layers. Let’s look at how you would do this to replace an entire sky. This is simplest to do with a small sky area without clouds (these tend to show problems more, anyway).
| * Select the sky. Use the Magic Wand selection tool or other automatic selection tools (such as Color Range). Select the whole sky, even if you have to do it in stages, adding in parts from different layers. You may need to add a very slight feather (just a few pixels) to blend the edge. |
| * Add a blank layer. An empty, blank layer on top of your layer stack will receive the sky fix. Having this on a separate layer makes it much easier to control the effect. |
| * Choose sky colors. Pick up colors from the original sky if you can. In Photoshop and Photoshop Elements, you can select a foreground and a background color. Double click on the color icon and you will get the Color Picker. Move your cursor over the sky and it will turn to an Eyedropper. If there is any color in the sky at all, click on a dark color for the foreground and a light color for the background, since most skies blend from dark to light as they get close to the horizon. Otherwise, pick good sky colors from the Color Picker palette—again, a light one and a dark one. |
| * Fill the selection with the sky colors. Using the Gradient tool, create a gradient of sky colors from dark to light through the selected sky area, keeping the dark at the top and the light at the bottom. Experiment with the position of the start and stop points of your gradient line. You work a gradient by clicking once to start the gradient, then, keeping the mouse button depressed, move to a new spot where the gradient will end, then release. The gradient will blend over that distance. |
| * Adjust the new sky color and tone. Use the Hue/Saturation and Brightness/Contrast controls to make the sky look natural. You can also change the opacity of the layer to control its density—this can be a very effective way to make the sky look natural. |
| * Add noise to the sky. The computer colors used for the sky fix are smooth and won’t look very photographic. Enlarge a section of the photo so you can see the grain in the non-sky part of the photo and add some noise to the sky colors to match (Add Noise is in Filters>Noise). Usually, you need to set the grain very low and you might need to add a slight Gaussian blur to it to make it match the rest of the photo. Just compare it to the details nearby from the original photo. |
Once you complete your panoramic image, you’ll want to print it out on your Epson printer. This is not a problem except that you need to have long paper. You can buy Epson photo-quality paper in rolls that are precut to a standard panoramic size of 8.3 x 23.4 inches (21 x 59 cm).
When you print, you need to tell your printer the type of paper and the size you are using. Obviously, a very big panoramic will take some time to print. Be careful to support the paper going into and coming out of the printer so it does not fold or crease, which will damage your photo.
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Comments
Better option for the sky - (1)Have a great stock file of a sky on hand and open it (2) Select All and Copy (3) Open the image that needs help (4) create a duplicate layer (5) In Photoshop use the magic wand tool select the sky area. Be sure all of the boxes are NOT checked in the tool bar. (6)Using the polygonal lasso tool, subtract any non-sky area from the selection , usually fairly easy. (7) Paste in the sky from your cliipboard (8) adjust levels on each layer and flatten the image.
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