Pixiq

My embryonic wildlife photographic days began by taking marine life on the shore whilst working as a marine biologist. From this, it was a natural progression to shoot fish and other life in aquaria, which I learnt to do by trial and error. It can be very rewarding, but at times it can be very frustrating – more of that anon.

Even though tanks look very bright, to freeze the swimming motion of fish or reptiles you will need to use flash to get a decent shot. So the first thing to check is whether flash is permitted or not. Most aquaria are OK about this, but occasionally a specific tank may have a No Flash Please notice. Some small tropical fish can be very sensitive, but you will soon be able to see if any animals react to flash and to move on. For smaller fish, I use a105mm f/2.8G AF-S VR Micro Nikkor lens, otherwise I find the 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR Nikkor is a speedy way of working a range of subjects in different sized tanks.

When using a pop-up flash or a flash mounted directly on the camera, avoid standing at right angles to the glass because the flash will reflect back from the glass and so appear in shot. Simply shoot at an oblique angle and avoid wearing white clothing because this will appear as a ghostly image. Better still hold the lens right up to the glass (best to use a rubber lens hood to avoid marking Plexiglass and making a noise) to avoid any reflections.

If you are not getting enough output from the flash dial in a +1 or +2 stops on the flash. Unless taking a static animal, avoid using a slow shutter speed with flash because you will get a ghosting where the animal moves after the flash has fired

When I can get permission to work in an aquarium out of hours, I set up one or two flashes on lighting stands and move around handholding the camera.  

Another problem can be fingerprints on the front wall and an algal film growing inside. I carry a damp cloth for wiping marks and a dry one for finishing off. The algae problem is solved only if you can find out when the tank will next be cleaned.

Touch pools are now a popular feature of many aquaria – and ideal for looking down onto crabs or flat fish such as rays. Once gain, be careful about flash reflections – this time off the water surface.

Some aquaria – notably in China – substitute natural aquatic plants and seaweeds with plastic or cloth versions, which my be maintenance free, but are rarely subtle natural tones.  I normally avoid these tanks or try to take the fish swimming in mid water.

There are nonetheless some excellent aquaria in China but the biggest problem – especially at weekends – is the sheer number of visitors. I made the mistake of going to Shanghai Aquarium recently on a national holiday and every tank had a crowd 6-10 deep in front of it. I soon learnt how to elbow my way in but then I had to contend with every family wanting to take their child in front of the tank! I usually managed to grab a shot during the change over, but it was hardly a relaxing experience!

To recap

1. Check OK to use flash
2. Check the glass is clean
3. With flash on camera shoot at an oblique angle to the glass
4. Avoid white clothing
5. Use a rubber lens hood
6. Don't use slow shutter speed with flash for moving animals
7. Check no reflections of room lights in tank, if so recompose
8. Vary the composition, don't take single fish all side on
9. Shoot at an oblique angle looking down onto touch pools
10. Take a spare set of batteries for both the camera and flash