Darkening a room by adding light

It makes sense, honest...

The Revenge of SpaceLemon (29/365)

I was doing a photo shoot a few days ago, where I was photographing a lemon suspended from a piece of thread. I wanted to make it look as if it was hovering in pitch darkness.

Upon seeing the results, someone asked me an interesting question: Isn’t it difficult to focus your camera in the dark? Well, no, because the photo was taken in the daytime, with my lights on. So, how come does it look like it was taken at night?

That, my friends, is the power of contrast in lighting. You have to remember that you don’t need a dark room in order to make a background completely dark – you just need to ensure that your foreground is significantly brighter than the ambient light. Here’s how and why… 

It’s all about relative brightness

To take the lemon photograph, I used a pretty simple set-up: A couple of flashguns aimed at the lemon, from a very close distance. Because the flashes were so close to the subject (they are just out of frame, in fact), it adds a lot of light. If you’re curious why that is, check out the inverse-square law on Wikipedia.

Say 'bonjour' to the magical space-lemon. It's citrus powered, awesome, and magical. Oh, and it hovers in space, clearly. That's what makes it awesome. If you want to take a closer look, click on the photo!

The reason why the photo came out as it did, is because of the camera settings: The camera was set to ISO 100, with f/9.0 aperture and 1/200 second shutter time. If you can’t visualise what those settings would do in the circumstances described, I welcome you to try that right now. Don’t worry, we’ll wait. Set your camera to precisely those settings, and take a photo indoors, without using a flash.

If you can’t be bothered to do the experiment: Even in a relatively well-lit room, that will result in a very dark photo indeed.

So, as far as the camera is concerned, it is taking a horribly underexposed photo. Which is perfectly fine, because I want a dark background. It’s the foreground that is important, and that is where my flashes come in.

Let me get this straight, you’re taking photos that look like darkness in a well-lit room?

This portrait was also taken in a relatively well-lit room - but again, because of the high flash output and the fast shutter time (in this case, f/8.0 and 1/500 second at ISO 100), it looks like it's taken in pitch darkness. Groovy. Clicky for bigger.

Short answer: Yup.

Slightly longer answer: Yup. You can do this by settin your camera to manual, and use an exposure which results in a dark room (by choosing a fast shutter time). The next step is to use your flashes to light the subject.

Of course, this doesn’t work if the light from your flashguns spill onto the background (you’re trying to keep that as dark as possible, remember?) so it is a good idea to use a snoot or a honeycomb grid to ensure that the flash light isn’t accidentally re-lighting your background, because then you’re back to square one.

Can this be used for anything else?

Well of course. Always remember that it’s all about the contrast in lighting: If your flashes are more powerful than the light you are photographing in, then you can ‘darken the room’ with your camera settings, and use the flashes to light your scene.

Hell, if you’ve got enough flashes, you can turn even broad daylight into night. Don’t believe me? Check out this article on ganging flashes, and scroll down to “Turning Noon Into Night With High-Speed Sync”. Pretty impressive stuff, but there’s a pretty ridiculous amount of money in flash equipment being used right there.

You don’t have to go to those extremes, though – using flash outdoors on a shady day can give great effects, because when done well, your subjects look as if they are brighter than the surroundings. When done subtly, it can look bloody fantastic – your eyes are automatically and subconsciously drawn to the main subject – always a good sign in a photograph.


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© Kamps Consulting Ltd. This article is licenced for use on Pixiq only. Please do not reproduce wholly or in part without a license. More info.

Comments

Anonymous
Anonymous

The more I think about this the more sense it makes. Great lighting tip.

Anonymous
Anonymous

Haha, I’m glad, Greg. It’d be bloody sad if it made less sense the more time you spent thinking about it :)

It’s a pretty basic flash photography trick, but I figured it’d be worth writing it up anyway, if only so I can point people to it the next time the question comes up :)

Anonymous
Anonymous

it actually works quite well with the onboard flash on my old D70, which was sitting on the desk as I was reading the piece.

Anonymous
Anonymous

excellent information, always .. you know how the right info at the right time? this is one of those times for me …

>>> Gina
http://fyneimages.blogspot.com/ (my photos)
http://ginaseye.blogspot.com/ (my blog)

Anonymous
Anonymous

If the room is darkish you can also use flash compensation to achieve the same

As far as hangingup the lemon – why not just use a black background cloth and ledges to get the effect – like this tea set all ‘hanging in space’

http://www.squibb.org.uk/pictures/background.jpg

Anonymous
Anonymous

Awesome! Thank you for the instructions!

Anonymous
Anonymous

Love the pic of the lemon, thanks for the tip.

Anonymous
Anonymous

Would have never of thought of doing this! I’ve always been fairly anti flash as I much prefer ambient light, but this is urging me to buy a flash gun and give it ago. Impressive results, thanks for sharing :)

Anonymous
Anonymous

Thanks very much for showing this! Really interesting and for sure something to try out “at home”.

Anonymous
Anonymous

Great post, but I think it is important to note the limitations of this technique. Namely sync speed. As you are undoubtedly aware (but your readers might not be), the shutter speed can not be faster than the sync speed of the camera (usually 1/200). If it is faster and “high speed synching” isn’t used then parts of your picture will be blacked out by the shutter traveling across the sensor.

Anonymous
Anonymous

thank you for your post!i am definitely going to try it out!!!

Anonymous
Anonymous

Sometimes this technique works outdoors, too.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/asylum_collectibles/4426024800/

Anonymous
Anonymous

Relative lighting is definitely the key. Thanks for a great post. If you’re interested in how famous photogs light their images, check out:

GuessTheLighting.com

Anonymous
Anonymous

Thanks for the tip. Regarding the light spilling into the background, if you don’t have a snoot or a honeycomb grid, can you limit the spill over by placing the lighting up higher, letting the shadow cast fall behind the subject?

Regarding snoots - I wanted to do some smoke photography about a year ago and didn't have one. I just took a piece of paper and folded it into a squared "tube" which I stuck over the end of my flash head. Worked a treat, and I still use the same old piece of paper as my snoot a year on. Snoot for a couple of pennies. I used it to take the attached photo of my daughter recently, and yes, in a fully lit room.

Hello Chris,
Great shot! I was wondering, did you have a black backdrop with this picture as well?

No, not at all. She was just sat in her bedroom and we had the normal ceiling light on in there. If I hadn't used this technique of exposing for the directional flash, you would see the curtains of the bedroom and bookshelves and things in the background. The black is purely from exposing for the flash. It's a technique I enjoy using - saves all the bother of backgrounds :^)

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