HDR Exposure - My Way

Determining the exposure range I need for HDR

To determine the number of stops of dynamic range that exists in a subject scene, I use one of these.

 

gossen.jpg

Yes, it is a good old fashioned light meter. The kind of meter I am talking about is the kind that your parents may have used with film. The one in the image above is a 10 -15 year old Gossen Luna Pro. It still works and is very accurate. The original batteries are no longer available but there are a few substitutes. I sometimes use a Sekonic meter or an old Weston just for fun.

I usually find it easier to use a handheld meter to determine the brightness range rather than using my in camera meter, especially if the camera is already mounted on a tripod. If the light changes during my shooting session I don't have to remove the camera from the tripod to take new readings.

The great thing about these meters is that they can measure in EV's (Exposure Values).

To determine my HDR range, I simply find the area of my scene that has the brightest tones and take a reading. This may be a reading of the outdoors as seen through a window. This will be the high end. In order to have detail of this area, I will need to have an exposure that is not blown out. This reading will actually be underexposing the rest of the scene but will maintain the detail in the highlights.  I then take a reading of the darkest area of the scene that might be the dark shadows of the room I am standing in. This reading will produce an overexposure for the rest of the scene but will bring out the details in the shadows. I then determine the middle value that I want to capture. The rest of the exposures are determined by their brightness relationship in EV's to my main exposure. Depending on the number of stops between my brightest and darkest parts of the scene, I will adjust the rest of the exposures accordingly.

Depending on the camera, I will set a range of 3 to 7 or more exposures that cover the full range I need for my HDR capture. This is usually done through the Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB) setting on your camera but may also be done manually by changing the shutter speed.

The beauty of measuring in EV’s is that you really do not have to set the ISO speed on the meter. i usually determine the main reading with the camera meter. The only thing I need to know from the meter is the number of stops difference in brightness. The meters needle will show you the EV numbers as you point it at the bright and dark areas of the scene. EV’s by the way are equivalent to 1 stop. Simply find out the number of EV’s between your two ends and you can determine your exposure range and make your settings.

You can use any meter you want. However, my old time meters are still working and they are great for HDR!

 

Please leave a comment or ask a question.

Please have a look at all my posts.

 

 

 

 

Comments

Hooray for the Gossen Luna-Pro!

Some of my earliest (and fondest) childhood memories involve the Luna-Pro. My father was a professional studio and wedding photographer. As his adoring sidekick, I was eager to sit here and there holding the light meter as he directed, to meter incident light (now, which way to hold that rocker switch?). Sometimes I got to meter direct light, and calculate the proper f-stop.

I still have Dad's Hassy 500c, his 4x5's, and 5x7's, but the 8x10 studio floor camera was lost in a fire. And of course, I still have the Luna-Pro.

I haven't used any of the above in years, of course. I'm still coming to grips with the idea that 35mm can match medium format, much less the notion that digital can beat them both. My Canon T90 is the pinnacle of flexible film photography, and it sits in the corner in a dust-covered bag. I wish I could afford the digital equivalent.

:/

John Neel
Pixiq Expert

I bought my first Luna Pro about thirty some years ago. I still have it and it still works.

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