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With the 4th of July right around the corner, what better time than now to learn how to capture some amazing photos of fireworks. What follows is your complete guide to photographing fireworks on any occasion.

Fireworks Photography Fundamental 1: Slow Shutter Speed

A skyrocket takes time from the moment it's launched until the last burst of its color fades. As the rocket sails skyward, the crowd has time to exclaim "Ooh!" Then as it explodes in a burst of trails of color, the crowd has time to exclaim, "Ahh!" From launch to fadeout takes a few seconds perhaps ending with a stirring "bang." Your exposure, therefore, should be long enough to capture part, or all, of this time-consuming progression.

Shooting with a digital camera is somewhat like shooting slide film. If you're not careful, you can overexpose and lose detail and color in the highlights. Since fireworks are, by definition, highlights, using a digital camera to capture them can be tricky.

How long should your exposures for fireworks photos be? At least one second, sometimes two seconds, and some even longer. Shorter exposures don't always capture the full burst and longer exposures tend to produce washed-out results. The best way to tackle a long exposure will depend primarily on what kind of camera you're using.

Fireworks Photography Fundamental 2: Choosing the Right Aperture

You might think that because the sky is so dark you need a wide aperture. Just the opposite is true. Remember, your objective is not to record the dark sky except as background. You want to record the intensely bright streaks of color. Were you to use a wide open aperture during your time-exposure, you would probably overexpose the colors. Result: They would "burn out" and lose coloration. To intensify the color, therefore, use a smaller aperture like f/8, or f/11, or even f/16. As with your choice of shutter speed, you will have to set your aperture manually. Which you should use depends upon your digital camera's ISO setting (or the speed of your film), and the intensity of the color bursts. We suggest you bracket your shots, using different apertures.

Fireworks Photography Fundamental 3: Setting the ISO

Typically, noise/grain is not a problem in this type of image. We recommend that you use ISO 200, or 400. The important point is that you don't need a very fast ISO; in fact super-fast ISOs may overexpose the firework display. Very slow ISOs - for example, ISO 100 - may not be sensitive enough to capture the display.

Since many of today's digital SLRs offer good results at high ISOs such as 800, 1600 and 3200, why not use a faster ISO? The answer is simple - you don't need to. You want a long exposure time, and as we've mentioned elsewhere, the bursts of the exploding fireworks are bright enough to etch themselves onto low ISO sensor settings such as 200 or 400, even with a medium-size aperture setting. A higher ISO would just run the risk of overexposed washed out colors. We also suggest, because of the brightness of the fireworks vs. the dark night sky, that you avoid using the "Auto ISO" setting, one that we don't use much anyway.

Fireworks Photography Fundamental 4: A Solid Platform

Regardless of your camera, once you've worked out the shutter speed/aperture/ISO combination, the key to success is a solid platform to hold the camera motionless during the time the shutter is open. This is a requirement for all time-exposures or shutter speeds slower than 1/30 of a second. Obviously, the best platform of all is a tripod. It provides a solid, easy-to-carry base on which to hold the camera motionless during the exposure. It also allows you to easily position the camera at the proper elevation. All DSLRs and almost all point-and-shoots have a threaded opening on the bottom that permits you to attach the camera to a tripod.

A tripod is just the beginning. You also want the camera to be as vibration-less as possible during the time-exposure. Since pressing the shutter button can cause the camera to vibrate, you can avoid this by also using a cable release. The cable release enables you to press the shutter button without touching the camera directly, which minimizes camera shake.

If you don't have a tripod handy (or you're using a camera that doesn't have a tripod thread), don't give up. Try placing your camera on a makeshift solid platform, such as a fence post, a railing, or a wall. None of them is as steady or convenient as a tripod, but they're infinitely better than hand-holding.

Since you are going to be shooting in the dark bring a small flashlight so you are not fumbling with your camera's controls and settings, not to mention changing memory cards etc. In a pinch you can even use the light from your smart phone.

You'll want to take lots of pictures, so have a backup battery in the event that your primary battery gives out during the show.

Fireworks Photography Fundamental 5: Composition

Which way should you hold the camera? Typically, you'll be better off with a vertical format rather than horizontal. After all, the trail of a skyrocket is usually upward and not very wide. However, a final decision about the frame you use will also depend on the size of the crowd viewing the event, your position in that crowd, and the number of spots from which the fireworks will be deployed.

Take a little time before the show to scout the location. If it's a smaller show, you may be able to chat with the pyrotechnic crew beforehand. To get the best fireworks photos with a digital camera, point-and-shoot or DSLR, try to determine where the fireworks will be launched and then try to find a clear, unobstructed view that meets your compositional requirements based on the terrain, the height at which the fireworks will explode, and your lens choices. You don't want to be in the middle of a crowd, with people wandering in front of the camera, or worse, bumping into your tripod mid-exposure. Steer clear of artificial light sources such as streetlights to avoid the possibility of light flare. Watch out for tree branches that can sneak into your composition too.

Should you use flash? No. Not ordinarily. (In a moment, we'll discuss when you might want to use flash.) Ordinarily, turn off your flash. The fireworks themselves provide all the light you want. If your camera cannot be controlled and the flash goes off whether you like it or not, try covering the flash with your hand or a piece of tape so that the camera doesn't "see" it.

Back to basics:

Whether you're advanced or not, there's one more "trick" for you to consider. Why limit yourself to just one rocket's glare? What about keeping your shutter open long enough to capture the glare of a few rockets exploding in air one after the other. To accomplish this, experiment with longer time exposures — ten seconds, 20 seconds, and even longer. You can get some dazzling results!

To sum up our fireworks photography tips, don't let any of the complications examined in this article discourage you. Firework pictures are easy to take and make great photographs. Just remember the Fundamentals.

While shooting, be aware that most firework displays have a rhythm that usually ends in a multiple burst of glory. If you want to limit the amount you shoot, hold back for this Grand Finale. But be wary. It may happen before you realize it...and then it's too late! So be sure you're ready for it. If the fireworks have a musical accompaniment — like Tchaikovsky's 1812 Overture — you can hear it coming. But often, you can't anticipate the Finale, so we can only admonish you to follow the Boy Scout motto — Be Prepared!

This post was written by the New York Institute of Photography. For more photography tips, or to request a free photography course catalog, visit NYIP.com.