Lazertran Digital Image Transfers
Digital image transfer is the technique of transferring a digital image from its printed surface to another substrate such as wood, metal, glass, canvas, or paper. In this article, we will look at creating digital transfers from prints made on various types of Lazertran materials, as well as transfers from inkAID-coated substrates.





Lazertran Transfers
There are three different kinds of Lazertran available for use in creating image transfers:
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Lazertran: Regular Lazertran is only for use with a color photocopier machine. It will not work with ink jet printers. It is a waterslide transfer paper. The image is actually printed onto a clear film of acrylic. Just photocopy an image onto the Lazertran and then soak it in hot water. After a few seconds, the image slides off of the backing as a transparent decal. These decals can be applied to almost any surface—wood, stone, paper, fabric, etc. You can glue the decals to your substrate surface using craft glue. On rough surfaces, such as wood, stone, or paper, use turpentine to soak into the surface a bit before applying the decal. With glass or ceramic transfers, the transfer must be placed, then the substrate (with the transfer on it) must be heated in an oven. When transferring to fabric, place the decal and iron it on.
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Lazertran Inkjet: This is also a waterslide transfer paper, but it is made to be used with ink jet desktop printers. It will not work with color copiers. These decals can be transferred to just about any surface, including paper, stone, and wood. Like regular Lazertran, it can also be baked onto ceramics. Lazertran Inkjet is not good for transferring onto fabric.
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Lazertran Silk: This a silk surface with a paper backing that peels off. Lazertran Silk can only be printed on with color photocopier machines. Once you’ve printed out your image, it can be transferred to fine fabrics, such as silk or satin, with a hot iron. It fuses with the material onto which it is transferred without making the material stiff where it is applied. With metal sheets, iron the Lazertran Silk onto the surface and then soak it in water and peel away the backing. When transferring to polymer clay, all you need to do is place the image and the clay will absorb the inks. To transfer to paper, spray the paper substrate with a spray adhesive, then lay the Lazertran Silk on top of the sprayed paper. Brush the backing of the Lazertran Silk with water and leave it to soak for a few minutes, then peel away the backing.
Caution
When printing with ink jet inks, do not over ink the Lazertran Inkjet paper. I use the Glossy paper setting on my Epson 2200 and this works fine. If too much ink is used, it tends to spread out when transferred.

Lazertran Inkjet Waterslide Decals
Always something new! Lazertran Inkjet is an exciting new product for digital artists. This waterslide decal paper is the latest fun and easy way to make image transfers without the expensive and time consuming procedure of buying film, getting correct exposures, and needing an enlarger or slide printer to have at your disposal. The end result of this new, digital process looks the same as the original Polaroid emulsion transfer technique!
The instructions below are the five steps involved in a basic Lazertran Inkjet transfer (not for regular Lazertran or Lazertran Silk). Subsequent to these instructions, I have provided more detail with regard to transferring onto specific substrates. In addition to the substrates detailed below, Lazertran Inkjet (as well as regular Lazertran) can be transferred onto ceramic surfaces.
Step One
Select your image and prepare it in the computer.
Step Two
Once you have your image ready, print it onto the white, matte front side of the Lazertran Inkjet stock with an ink jet printer. Be sure to check the Glossy, or Film, setting in your printer’s dialog box. You don’t want too much ink on your decal, and these settings will lessen the ink output.
Caution: Always print on the front! The back side is a pale greenish-blue color, but it is hard to see unde tungsten lights. So during daylight hours, makre the back of the Lazertran Inkjet with a "B" or an "X." Then, if you decide to print in the evening, you will easily be able to recognize which is the back (or wrong) side of the stock.
Step Three
After printing, let the print dry thoroughly (for at least one hour) to give the inks time to become waterproof.
Step Four
When the print is dry, soak it in hot water—not boiling, just hot. (It will also work in cool water, but the paper tends to curl as it dries.)

Step Five
Upon soaking, the print will slide off of the paper backing. Gently drip the excess water off of the decal and place it onto your substrate surface. Then, you can press the transfer down gently and push out any air bubbles that may have been caught underneath. If the surface is rough, however, as with certain stone substrates, you may tear the decal if you try to smooth out air bubbles. In this case, it is better to make a pin hole and gently press the air out. For a more creative approach, you can choose to tear, fold, or break off the edges of the transfer. This causes a more distressed look, which in some cases may suit the image better than a pristine, straight edge. It all depends on the image and the artist.
Step Six
If you wish the decal to be transparent, you can now apply a coat of varnish on the decal and let it dry. Or, you can selectively coat with an acrylic matte medium to keep chosen areas white, and then coat with varnish to make the rest of the background transparent. The transfer will take about an hour to dry.
Step Seven
When it has thoroughly dried, it is a good idea to spray the transfer with either an acrylic spray, such as Krylon Crystal Clear, or give the finished work a thin coat of varnish to protect it.
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Comments
I'm trying to find a Mac compatible printer that will work with Lazertran. My HP 1320 will not print images, even in pdf form. A local copy store tried to help me yesterday, and I killed their non-fuser oil machine after 2 good prints, and 2 more interesting, but flawed prints. They won't try it again, and told me I need an older, fuser oil based copier. Any suggestions?
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