Pixiq

Photographing models in a studio environment is a very special situation for a photographer. It gives me total control over the way the photo will turn out and total responsibility for its success or failure.

My goal with this post is to help you get started taking studio photos by outlining some basics. Studio photography, portraiture work and model photography is still a viable photographic career and great studio photography is always in demand.

To get started search the PIXIQ site or click on me in the contributors list and read my post about setting up a studio shooting space. This is a basic two light studio that is easy and affordable to set up. The biggest thing to deal with is space. When working with a model you’ll need to have a space that is at least 10 feet (3 meters) wide and 12 feet (four meters) deep (if you have more space that’s all the better) to shoot in.

Step 1. Setting the set.

As you can see from the images with this post light and background selection sets the tone for the photo. The young woman in the white sweater is a study in contrasting black and white while the blonde model is about skin tone and lightness. I posted the third image to illustrate how radically the background changes the look of the image.

So before taking your first frame, think through what you want to accomplish. For portraits and model portfolio photography I suggest that you start with simple clothing and simple backgrounds. With experience you can move on to more complex sets and lighting.

Step 2. Setting the lighting.

Lighting is the key to studio work. For most studio work I like a moderately soft light. Light from a point source like a flash or a tungsten floodlight is harsh, that means that the shadows are very dark in comparison to areas lit by the light itself. I prefer softer light. My studio has white walls and a white ceiling so it’s easy to turn my lights around and bounce them off these white surfaces. Alternatively I can mount photo umbrellas in front of the lights and bounce the light off of them.

Another choice is to get one of the new cool fluorescent lighting systems that use energy efficient spiral bulbs. These spiral lamps produce a much softer and pleasing light than a floodlight.

For portraiture and most model work I start by setting my main light (for example the light to the left of the camera) about 6-10 feet (2-3 meters) from the model. Then I place the second light (the one on the right) about 1.5 times that distance (9-15 ft or 3-5 meters.)

The reason for setting lights at different distances is to have the second light lighten up shadow areas without eliminating. Shadows create three-dimensionality, giving definition and shape to faces and bodies.

Step 3. Photographing People.

I was once told that there are fifty two muscles in the face. That means that the number of possible facial expressions is in the millions. When we see someone’s picture, the first thing we do is look at their eyes and their facial expression. In a way that’s the key to strong studio photography.

Portraits are best shot with telephoto lenses or zoom lenses set to moderate telephoto settings. I’d suggest a 75 mm lens with an APS-C DSLR or a 100-135mm lens with a full frame DSLR.

When photographing a full body shot avoid wide angle lenses or settings. These lenses add a lot of distortion to the image and can make the model’s body look strange. I prefer to use moderate focal length lenses and back farther away from the subject.  

In my experience it takes a lot of pictures to get to that one photo that really works. I never get a great portrait in my first frame, or my second or my twentieth. It is one of the biggest differences between amateur photographers and pros. When I work with a model, I expect to get my best pictures after we’ve worked together for at least a half an hour and I’ve shot dozens of photos.

Finally, the most important skill a studio photographer needs to develop is patience. Beyond great lighting and super gear, the photographer sets the tone in the studio and a photographer who exhibits calm and patience invariably gets the best pictures.