Put Together a Team of Assistants to Propel You to Fashion Photography Greatness
Some photographers make it look easy. I mean…you’ve got a great looking model on a spread in a fashion editorial and he/she is grabs your attention with those eyes and those clothes. The clothes are perfect and not a strand of hair is out of place (or maybe the wind just happens to be blowing it perfectly). The background is perfect. The lighting is perfect.
That photographer must be a genius right? Maybe you’re more cynical and think that the photographer is just lucky and the model is what makes the image stand out? Either way…you’ ve got it wrong. Here’s a secret you may not know:
The best fashion photographers come across as genius because they’ve put together a great team.
When we hear about the greatness of famous fashion photographers we tend to forget (or simply not know) that it’s usually a great team that put that image together. It’s the hard work of all those team members that helps ensure that the photographer ends up with a stunning fashion shoot. In fact, it’s nearly impossible to get great fashion images without great models and a stellar team of assistants. I mean…there’s only one of YOU.
So what do you do when you’re starting out in fashion photography?
You may find that you have to work solo for the first few shoots. And that’s fine while you are practicing, but when you’re ready to take your fashion photography to a professional level, you’re gonna need help. Trust me, there are plenty of volunteers that are going to be willing to give you a hand. You just need to know what to look for.
Photography Assistants
Fashion photographers need photography assistants. They need them to help with equipment in many different ways including but not limited to; moving lights, handling reflectors, adjusting lights, etc. In the early stages you may be able to get away with grabbing any of your buddies/relatives to help you out by holding reflectors but eventually you’re going to want someone with photography knowledge (or you can teach them if you have time).
A great place to find photography assistants is checking out your local college or university if they have a photography department. Speak to the professor and find out if any one in the photography program is interested in helping you out. If there isn’t a college/university suitable you can put out an ad and conduct interviews. You’ll want to find someone with at least basic knowledge of photography and lighting (at the very least a willingness to learn) because you need them to be able to help with basic things and the occasional technical problem.
Photographer’s assistants are a vital part of your team. They need a broad range of skills and the right kind of personality. The ability to multi-task, organize, and follow instructions are all musts.
A great photographer’s assistant will have a rapport with the photographer that can look like mind reading. They’ll grab equipment and move lights or reflectors without the photographer having to do more than point and grunt. They have very open personalities that ensure they can be helpful, tolerant, willing, and great at dealing with all kinds of people (models, clients, hair and makeup artists).
Stylists
There’s a triangle of magic that has to be put together before the photographer’s camera starts to click. The makeup and hair have to go perfectly with the fashion styling to really make your fashion pictures work well. You’ll need to find the right team of stylists to help you achieve your artistic objectives. This team can be two or three people. A makeup and hair artist and a fashion stylist or one person to handle each objective. It is possible to find one person who can do all three and do it well but it’s kinda like trying to capture a unicorn…good luck.
Flawless, simple, and natural makeup are what most commercial shoots call for. Finding a makeup artist that can even out the model’s skin tone and flatter facial structures and features is key. It really helps if the makeup artist also knows a bit about lighting and how it affects the final shots. There are many variables that affect how the makeup reacts under different lighting situations. A reflective base leaves hot spots when shooting with ring lights. Colored gels will alter the colors of mascara and eyeshadow. The makeup artist should be able to follow specific instructions and be able to match the colors and tones of the garments being used in the shoot.
Hair has to compliment the garment’s overall style and finding a hair stylist to that can work under time constraints, various weather elements, and a variety of hair types is vital to the shoot. Creativity and communication with the photographer, as well as the other stylists, cannot be stressed enough.
A fashion stylist’s main responsibility is handling the style and mood of the shoot. It isn’t uncommon for the fashion stylist to select models, set up the props, and, of course, select the fashion and accessories for the shoot. You’ll find most fashion stylists prefer working as freelancers but it isn’t uncommon to find them working with agencies that also represent hair and makeup artists. A fashion photographer and a fashion stylist can often work well together for years as they compliment each other’s work when a symbiotic relationship has occurred. It’s a mutual understanding of both people knowing what they want out of the shoot and working together to bring the vision to print.
Finding the stylists is as easy as heading to local agencies, checking Model Mayhem, or heading to your local college or university. It’ll take some time putting the right team together but it’s a necessity for the working fashion photographer.
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Comments
You omitted to mention the insipid rise of the 'photo-director'; vital if the novice fashion photographer needs someone to blame for the failure of a shoot. Art directors will take control to ensure the success of a session- their reputation is on the line too. Track down the digital retouchers who work with the photographers you want to replicate- much of their look is achieved in post.
You bring up a good point. The art or photo director is a new-ish thing to the team aspect acting in a management type role. This used to be handled by the photographer but I think you're right in pointing out this particular team member's importance in today's ever increasing complex market.
Spot on with "insipid rise" BTW.
Hey Damien,
Photography assistant and the photo- director, like Joseph said, are the valid points. I have noted them down.
Thanks for this wonderful piece of information.
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Nice portrayal of the chaotic fashion shoot. I just came across this site. I love it. Im bookmarking it.
Yes, fashion shoots can often be chaotic, but a solid team of people who excel at their areas of expertise can often make things run much smoother (even in the craziest of times)!
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