Step by Step Product Photography Part 2

Photoshop

Before you read this, make sure you check out Part 1 of this post!

Now that you've taken all of the photos it's time to make them look like something that can actually sell a product. These cellphone cases are basic, with a simple white background and a small reflection underneath, nothing super fancy, but the final image is exactly what the client wanted. Here's how I got it:

pink_before.jpgThis is the photo straight out of the camera. There are some major problems here: the case isn't straight, there is a visible umbrella reflection, the curve of the table I was shooting on is seen in the bottom left, and there are shadows and funky shades everywhere. 

Step 1: Straighten the phone! Zoom in real close, and find a nice straight line on the phone. In this case the only straight lines are the sides between the pink and black. Grab your handy ruler tool (found in the eyedropper icon) and draw a line along the straight edge. Next, go to Image>Image Rotation>Arbitrary click ok and this should rotate your image to make the case straight up and down. 

Step 2: White out. Hit command (control on a PC) J to duplicate your layer. Get your paint bucket and make sure your foreground color is white. Paint it all white. 

Step 3: Add a layer mask (the white circle in a grey rectangle button). Click B for brush and make sure your foreground color is black. Now paint over where the phone should be. You should have something like this now: pink2.jpgLooking better, but we still have that ugly shadow there. 

Step 4: Command E to flatten your layers and then command J to add a new one. Image>Adjustments>Replace Color and click on the eyedropper with the plus sign next to it. Then click on the shadow areas. After you've added the shadows drag the "brightness" slider all the way to 100%. This should eliminate the shadows. 

Step 5: Click your Levels Adjuster button and take up your blacks and bring down your highs until you get a nice balance. Usually balcks around 5-10 and highlights around 230-245. This not only makes your blacks blacker, but adds nice natural saturation. Flatten All layers.

Step 6: Command J to add a new layer. Edit>Transform>Flip Vertical. Hit "V" to get your pointer and drag your flipped case down below the background layer. You won't be able to see the right side up case until you get it low enough. Next hit "E" for your eraser and erase the area above the flipped case. Should look like this while you're erasing: pink3.jpg When you erase enough of the top layer, line up the flipped case so it is just below the right side up case so that it looks like a natural reflection. 

Step 7: Grab the Gradient tool (in the same spot as your paintbucket). Make sure you have the far left gradient selected on the top of your toolbar. The one that fades from white to black, left to right. And make sure that in the drop down gradient menu you select the second one: fading white to checkered (background). Lastly, make sure white is your foreground color. Now place your cursor at the bottom of the upside down phone case, hold the shift key and drag it up to where the 2 phone cases meet. Let go of the mouse, and Voila! Command E to flatten, and you're finished!pink_final.jpg

Comments

You would have made your life a lot easier if you had placed the cases on a piece of clear plexiglass. Put a white background behind it, and light the background for +2 stops. Light the case separately for proper illumination.

Now all your cases would be against a perfectly white background. No reflections and no masking to bother with. You can then create your PS reflections in the same manner you showed.

I use this setup mostly for my eBay shots, or any time I want a product on a perfectly white background with no shadows or reflections to contend with. Very easy to set up and light, and the PS editing requires nothing more than cropping (which I usually just do in Lightroom in those cases).

Eric Reichbaum
Pixiq Expert

MindStorm: thanks for the comments. I didn't have any clear plexiglass, and I thought that shooting a flash up into my camera would cause flare. How do you keep the flash from causing flare when you shoot like that?

Never point the flash at the camera (unless of course you are trying for a flare effect). The white background is lit from a flash pointed at it, with a scrim if necessary, to prevent any spill back to the subject or the camera. That flash is set for +2 stop exposure, which causes the background to turn fully white.

A second flash is used pointed at the object, typically at 45 degree from the subject, pointed at the subject. This gives some modeling to the surfaces. A white bounce card (or a third flash at -2 stops) on the other side from the camera, to fill in the shadows. (main flash to left of camera and fill/bounce to right, or vice versa).

The plexiglass is easy to get at Tap Plastics, or Home Depot, Lowes, etc. I just got a sheet of 1/8" that I use for shots like this. Works like a charm, and saves a ton of time in Photoshop. :)

The thought I had was to raise the cellphone away from the surface of the white background - all you need is a piece of plastic pipe or similar and place the cellphone on the top of it. With one more flashgun, you can overexpose the background so that it is pure white and has no shadows from the cellphone. A bit like shooting a portrait against white, but doing it in miniature!

I did this with this silver coin (and it was easy then to make the background black, or any other color). It does save a lot of time in Photoshop.

Steve
Make money from Stock - Blog

Here are a couple examples done on the plexiglass arrangement I described. This is straight out of the camera, with no editing other than cropping.

For product catalog shots like this (or eBay, which is what these were used for), there is no faster way that I know of.

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