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NOTE: This is the fifth of a series of articles about understanding and controlling shutter speed, especially handheld. In one of my first articles, I listed each factor  which I will cover in depth in the next weeks and months. Please see the list of all the articles in this series  to understand how you can use slower shutter speeds in your photography. See the first article in this series for an example of a sharp photo taken handheld at 1/2 second. Also see my very popular article about the right shutter speed for a particular lens focal length and my most popular article how to handhold your camera correctly at slow shutter speeds.

UNDERSTANDING IMAGE STABILIZATION

Many high-end one-lens digital cameras (especially those that are called prosumer) have optical image stabilization (IS) built into the camera. DSLR's can have the stabilizer in the body or in the lenses. In both cases the stabilization reduces camera shake. It is generally agreed that IS can allow a photographer to shoot at shutter speeds significantly slower than without one. Estimates range from 1-4 shutter speeds. But don't take my word for it, read what this expert says or this expert or this expert. Taking the numbers from these knowledgeable photographers yields an average of a 2 shutter speed gain.

The following very precise definition from an article at photoxels.com about optical image stabilization explains it all:
"Image Stabilization (also called Anti-Shake, Vibration Reduction) is a technology present in some digital cameras that moves either a lens element (optical image stabilization or O.I.S. or simply, IS) or the image sensor (CCD Shift) to compensate for camera shake."
The lens or image sensor that moves is guided by a built in gyroscope that senses small movements when handholding and compensates. See the general wikipedia article about IS.

Which system is better? Both seem to work well but since sensor shift is built into the body, it is more versatile and costs considerably less because it works with all lenses. Lenses with IS cost more per lens and that's for each lens. Want to know more about these two systems? Read this article.

Optical Vs. Digital

Just like the huge difference between optical zooms and digital zooms, there are now digital stabilizers that simulate stabilization and are not nearly as good as optical stabilizers. One system called Digital Image Stabilization creates stabilization by processing the image after it has been taken by essentially sharpening the shot via software. Another digital system creates stabilization by automatically switching to a higher ISO in low light -- but this is an entirely different method which forces a faster shutter speed rather than allowing a lower shutter speed and also creates noise in the image. For that reason I will save my comments about ISO and this system for a later article. However, to make it simple, what you want is optical image stabilization. Yet if you already own a camera with the sharpening type of digital IS, you might want to test it to see the results.

Optical IS is a wonderful feature. Even if you go beyond a safe shutter speed for IS, and, for example, shoot at 5 or more shutter speeds slower, it can help. While at these extreme settings, it will not prevent a blurred image, it will reduce the amount of blur. And in a panning shot it tends to smooth out subtle jerky motions.

However there are other considerations. Camera manufacturers recommend you turn IS off when using a tripod. And it will not help in the least bit with subject movement. So while IS will let you handhold the camera steadier, any movement in the subject (a person talking, running, playing, a car moving) will be recorded.

Like every technique mentioned in this series of articles about using slow shutter speeds, you should test the IS feature on your camera. Take a number of shots at different lens focal lengths with and without the IS feature turned on and at a range of shutter speeds. Later go back and compare the results. Unfortunately most cameras do not record IS in the EXIF data, so a notebook or some kind of flag --such as throwing an added hat into a scene that is part of the test photo -- could be helpful.

NOTE: I will devote a detailed article or two in the future describing how to perform photographic tests.

Yes, You Really Can Shoot Handheld At 4 Shutter Speeds Slower
At the beginning of this series of articles I promised you, my readers, that with digital cameras you could now shoot at four shutter speeds slower than was possible in the past. By learning to handhold the camera properly (see my article on this) you should be able to shoot at 2 shutter speeds slower and then by using the stabilizer add another 2 shutter speeds slower -- making a total of 4 shutter speeds slower as promised.

For more about these techniques see my book: Experimental Digital Photography.

This Is Only The Beginning Of Your Creativity With Slow Shutter Speeds
Yet this is just the beginning. In fact shooting at even much slower shutter speeds is possible -- but at that point subject movement may come into play. In later articles I will discuss subject movement in detail and how to avoid it and also how it can be used for artistic and photographic purposes.

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