With in-camera metering you most likely have three options on your DSLR.

• Matrix Metering – the camera measures the light intensity in several points in the scene, and then combines the results to find the settings for the best exposure.
• Center Weight Metering – the meter concentrates between 60 to 80 percent of the sensitivity towards the central part of the viewfinder. The balance is then “feathered” out towards the edges.
• Spot Metering – the camera will only measure a very small area of the scene (between 1-5% of the viewfinder area). This will typically be the very center of the scene, but some cameras allow the user to select a different off-center spot, or to recompose by moving the camera after metering.

Many cameras offer more options but these are your basics and a good place to start.

There are a myriad of reasons to use the various metering options your camera provides.  It’s good to be familiar with how they all work to give you a “good exposure”.

Center Weight Metering

Center weighted metering is a good choice to use when you really don’t care about the exposure of the background much.  The subject of your photo is the most important and prominent thing and you need the meter to concentrate it’s efficiency and exposure emphasis in the center of the frame.

Spot Metering

Spot metering is a great choice when you’re caught in pretty extreme lighting conditions (like the concert photo above) and it’s crucial that your subject is properly exposed.  You need the meter to concentrate on a specific point in the scene and this may not be the center of the image.  I use spot metering when I’m photographing people who are backlit or sidelit by the sun near sunset or sunrise.

Matrix Metering

Matrix or evaluative metering allows the camera to see the whole scene and measure it for exposure.  It’s usually the default setting on most cameras and it’s a great way to get “good exposures” from most situations.

These cameras are so smart these days.  They are basically just little computers with a lens attached and camera manufacturers work really hard to outdo each other when it comes to helping photographers get “good exposures”.

Why throw away all that research and technology?

Using matrix or evaluative metering becomes an art form when you learn to use your experience and instincts alongside this technology (the LCD and histogram help as well).  You have to learn to look at the light and judge whether or not the camera is going to “get it right”.  Sometimes you need a little more light and sometimes you need less.

If you learn to use exposure compensation in conjunction with matrix metering you can control how much light to add or take away from the image!

Using the +/-EV dial to get your exposure correct!

The exposure compensation dial is usually placed near your shutter button on most DSLRs.  The placement of that dial is intended to allow the photographer the ability to adjust the exposure without having to remove his/her eye from the viewfinder.

With a quick flip of your thumb or forefinger you are able to adjust the EV value to whatever you want and adjust the exposure of the scene before you.  Using the +/-EV (exposure compensation) dial on the back of your camera while you’re still looking through the viewfinder helps to ensure you don’t miss your shot.

Don’t miss your shot!

If you’re having to change from center weighted metering to spot metering during fast action you have to remove the camera from you eye and you may miss the shot you were looking for.

All of this, of course, takes trial, error, and patience to get really comfortable with.  But who says that becoming one with your camera is supposed to be easy?

What metering modes do you use most often and why?

Photographs:

Damian by Maciej Gowin

Lady A at the NY State Fair by Scottwdw

Tyres Along The Docks by Paul M Reynolds

You can run, but you can’t hide by Eldad Hagar (Please support Hope For Paws)